Story: Bryce Faucheaux @nola_somm

Rolling hills filled with rows of vines, summer rains, and the presence of French winemakers, no I’m not describing a scene from France but from vineyards in Virginia! Virginia may be underappreciated as a top wine growing state to many Americans, but it is now home to over 300 wineries and is poised to continue to expand in the future. Believe it or not, the Virginia wine industry now generates more than 1 billion annually and looks ready to continue growing with wine tourism bringing more than 2 million people to visit each year. I spent three wonderful days tasting wine in the Monticello AVA recently and here is what I found inside and outside of my wine glass.

History

Early settlers of Virginia had high hopes to successfully cultivate grapevines as prosperous as they did tobacco. As early as 1619 colonists were required by the legislative body of the Colony of Virginia to plant vineyards to achieve this goal and vines were imported from Europe to find a home in this new world. Sadly, much like Thomas Jefferson was later to discover, Phylloxera would stop these European vines from being grown. In the early 1800’s Thomas Jefferson had ambitious plans and vision for his home state and Monticello estate, to craft world-class wines on his property that would make America proud and Europe envious. Unfortunately, his vineyard attempts never took off, but they instilled a spirit in the hearts and minds of vignerons to come.

Much like the rest of the winemaking world, Virginia was also victim to large scale setbacks, such as the Revolutionary War, phylloxera infestations, statewide Prohibition in 1914, nationwide Prohibition in 1920, the Great Depression, and two World Wars. While vinifera wine was off to a slow start, Dr Daniel Norborne Norton cultivated the Norton hybrid grape in the 19th Century featuring one parent species that was native to eastern North America. With a flavor profile more comparable to European grape vines and avoiding the foxy designation given to many native American grapes, Norton would go on to become a big star in popular Virginia Claret made by the Monticello Wine Company, which was once the largest winery in the south, prior to shutting down due to Prohibition. The durable, hardy, and good disease resistant Norton grape may have got its start in Virginia, but many eastern states now claim it as their own, like Missouri who adopted it as their official state grape in 2003.

The Virginia wine industry was modernized in 1976 when the Italian Zonin family, with wine industry roots tracing back to 1821 in the Veneto, invested in the state to help create Baboursville Vineyards. This was a major investment at the time as production was almost nonexistent, with only a handful of wineries in operation during this time. In many ways Gianni Zonin would fulfill Thomas Jefferson’s dream of the production of magnificent Virginia wine as Baboursville Vineyards has become a standard bearer for quality Virginia wine.

Climate & Vineyard Threats

Grape vines have a harsh life in Virginia, often starting late in the growing season due to the cold continental climate winter that pushes back budbreak. Summer often arrives with an intense heat, paired with humid and stormy weather, exacerbating fungal and mildew troubles for the grapevines. The summers are warm, and the winters are cold; the Blue Ridge mountains serve as both a rain shadow and as protection from winds. Vineyards lie on a sunny south-easterly exposure and average about 800 feet or more in elevation. Virginia faces multiple dangers for vine growing, with the major threats in this area being vines freezing in winter and spring frosts. Mildew can also be a factor due to the high percentage of humidity throughout most of the growing season.

Location

To date there are 10 large wine regions within Virginia which have 8 different AVA’s spread between them. In the Eastern part of the state there is the Virginia Peninsula, Northern Neck George Washington Birthplace, and Eastern Shore AVA’s. The Eastern Shore AVA has a significant maritime climate as on one side is the Chesapeake Bay and the other the Atlantic Ocean. Overall, these wine regions on the Eastern part of the state experience less dramatic swings of temperature and less of the threat of frost for grapevines.

The western Blue Ridge region of the state has two AVA’s, the North Fork of Roanoke which is known for vineyards running alongside the Roanoke River and The Rocky Knob which has vines found on the eastern slopes of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Monticello does a great job of crafting French styles of wine but something about the Blue Ridge terroir for me creates an indescribable quality that you cannot find anywhere else in the state. It makes you wonder: how much of great winemaking in Virginia is due to terroir, versus due to winemaking itself?

In Northern Virginia there is the Middleburg Virginia AVA, which is about 50 miles away from Washington D.C. This short drive from the nation’s capital makes it a popular wine tourism get away trip. This AVA has mountain boundaries on all sides expect for the North where the Potomac River forms its border. Currently most of Virginia’s 4,000 acres planted to vineyards are located in the Northern and Central Virginia regions.

Located in Northern Virginia is the Shenandoah Valley, the states largest AVA. The picturesque and pastural landscape of this region overlaps into West Virginia but the majority falls within Virginia. To the east is the Blue Ridge Mountains and to the west, the Allegheny Mountains. These towering mountain ranges forms a natural barrier or rain shadow for the valley, keeping it warmer and dryer than the other wine regions of the state. The Shenandoah Valleys limestone-based soils also help to retain higher amounts of natural acidity in the grapes from here, giving this region high marks for quality.

Located in Central Virginia, west of the states coastal plain and east of the Blue Ridge Mountains, is what is known as the Piedmont region. The region is named for its location at the foot of a mountain range and within it lies the states famed Monticello AVA. This AVA traces its history back to 1982 when the newly established Jeffersonian Wine Grape Grower’s Society proposed an AVA for the area surrounding nearby Charlottesville. It was approved in 1984, making it the state’s oldest AVA. Monticello takes its name from Thomas Jefferson’s estate, and its territory is filled with a diverse variety of grapes grown, from Gewurztraminer to Rkatsiteli.

Grapes of the Monticello AVA

The main grape varieties of Monticello AVA are: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Malbec, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Petit Manseng, and Vidal Blanc. Norton is listed as being grown in this area, although I personally saw little evidence of it. All of the Bordeaux varieties (except for Carmenère) are the main red grapes grown, as well as some emergence of Italian red grapes (Barbera, Nebbiolo, and Sangiovese, specifically), most notably at Barboursville Vineyards.

Viognier was thought to be the future of Virginia wine during the 1980’s with its thick grape skin and more sufficient space between berries helping to overcome the challenging humid summers. Now Chardonnay is the rising star of white grapes in this area, with one winemaker telling me how Viognier doesn’t grow quite as well as initially hoped for. This reminds me of how Oregon was set on Pinot Gris for several years before realizing it may not be the best fit. Vine growers of the state are currently experimenting with Vermentino to expand the range of diversity and quality of grapes available.

Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon are widely grown and used, but the rising red star is Petit Verdot. Many of the wines I tried had high percentages of it in the blend (20% or above!). Mark my words: Petit Verdot will be the rising star coming out of Virginia.

Soils

In the rolling hills of central “Virginia Piedmont” the best vineyards are at the base of these slopes. The soil types here are diverse with bedrock composed of gneiss, schist, and granite; the soil is composed of clay (sometimes iron rich), granite, sand, and loam. Loam, a mixture of sand, silt and clay, is quite common out of all the soil types which is beneficial for the vineyards here. This soil type has many desirable properties such as sand providing proper drainage from water, and the silt/clay allowing for the retention of certain minerals and nutrients as well as some moisture.

Winery Tastings

The following wineries were some of my favorites that stood out to me for their quality, great hospitality, and ability to capture what makes Virginia wines great.

King Family Vineyards

At the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains is King Family Vineyards, a second-generation family-owned and operated vineyard and winery specializing in producing wine that’s terroir-driven and focuses on only exceptional fruit quality. Winemaker Matthieu Finot crafts wine inspired by his travels in the Rhône Valley, Jura, Bordeaux, and Burgundy, while still having his wines uniquely representing Virginia. Finot’s philosophy and approach to winemaking is simple, with minimal intervention and letting the fruit express itself in this unique terroir.

Thatch Winery - Charlottesville, VA

Named for its thatched roof (the only winery in the United States with a custom thatched roof), this winery was one of my favorites. It’s 60 acres in size and is run by David Fratkin and Jeff Miller. Their philosophy is crafting wines with exceptional balance, complexity, and expression of terroir. In other words, uniquely Virginia and uniquely Thatch. There are easily a dozen wines, split up individually and into different flights.

While here I tasted the Fundamentals Flight, which included their 2019 Rosé, 2018 Estate Chardonnay, 2018 Meritage, and 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon.

2019 Rosé (45% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc)

dry, red plums, cherries, blackcurrants, tomato leaf, and green pepper. Mineral back-end, round texture, and medium-bodied

2018 Estate Chardonnay

100% Chardonnay grown on the estate and aged for 11 months (neutral French oak, amphora, and steel tank). Malolactic fermentation was blocked.
Fresh lemons, fresh red and yellow apples, fresh pears; malic acidity, oak-influenced round texture, and a lengthy finish. Wet rock minerality.

2018 Meritage (50% Petit Verdot, 35% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon)

an array of ripe dark fruits and blue fruits (most notably blackberries, black figs, and blueberries), along with intense aromas of gardenias and lilacs. Allspice on the back end; full-bodied and dense, complex, elegant, and a lengthy finish. My favorite out of these four!

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Petit Verdot)

similar fruit character to the Meritage, with way less floral presence and more savory pepper notes. Full-bodied and structured, but not as dense and plush as the Meritage.

Pippin Hill Farm and Vineyards - North Garden, VA

Michael Schaps is one of the most influential figure in today’s Virginia winemaking scene. He has earned himself a reputation as both an excellent winemaker and one of the most sought-after wine consultants. In addition to making wine at Pippin Hill, he has a winery of his own, both in Virginia (Michael Schaps Wineworks) and in Burgundy (Maison Schaps in Meursault). Like many other Burgundian producers that have found the beauty and potential in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Schaps sees major potential in Virginia’s Monticello AVA. Maybe other Burgundian winemakers might follow suit.

Pippin Hill was just as modest as many of the previous wineries I mentioned. You might say that Pippin Hill embraces biodynamic practices or, at the very least, minimal intervention. Their goal is to produce extraordinary quality wines while keeping the vineyard and its vines healthy. Natural sprays are used, while chemical repellents are minimized. From vineyard to grape to glass, the quality is high and the care is evident.

2018 Chardonnay Reserve

Ripe Meyer lemon, peaches, fresh banana, light toast, honey, and créme brûlée . Medium acidity, round, medium-bodied.

2017 Wild Common (100% Merlot)

Bing cherries, black plums, pomegranate, rose petals, black pepper, a dark/milk chocolate blend, and saddle leather. Velvety tannins, medium acidity, and medium-bodied.

2017 Petit Verdot (100% Petit Verdot)

an array of dark and red fruits (dark cherries, blackberries, red plums, pomegranate, redcurrants); milk chocolate, cigar box, sage, lavender, toast, vanilla, and granite; full-bodied, structured, plush velvety tannins.

2017 Easton Blue (Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Tannat)

boysenberries, black plums, blackcurrants, black figs, black licorice, sage, pipe tobacco, and green peppercorn.
Just as full-bodied as the 100% Petit Verdot, with a rounder softer structure, as well as a denser mouthfeel.

Veritas Winery - Afton, VA

Since 1999, Andrew and Patricia Hodson have been making a name for themselves with their family winery. It’s about 50 acres in size and produces a wide range of wines. They refer to their terroir as that of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Their daughter Emily Pelton has been their winemaker for over 15 harvests and her philosophy is to make sure each wine is true to varietal and well- balanced. She combines her old-world principles of viticulture and vinification with state-of-the-art technology to make sure each grape is expressed on a varietal and character basis. All in all, she makes sure the wines show off the beauty of where these grapes are grown.

2019 Sauvignon Blanc

fresh fruit flavors: white grapefruit, lime zest, peach blossom, green bellpepper, guava, and passion fruit
It has the fruit-forward and tropical nature you’d expect from New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, but also had a flinty minerality you’d expect from Sancerre (although less pronounced)

2019 Viognier

fresh apricots, lemon peel, honeydew, honeysuckle, honeycomb, and orange blossom
dry and crisp, stony minerality, medium finish

2019 Claret (Petit Verdot, with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Tannat)

ripe bramble fruit, red plums, blackcurrants currants, and blueberries
baking spice, mocha
soft plush tannin structure with a juicy, lengthy finish

Red Star (Chambourcin, Merlot, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot)

aromatic, red-fruited profile (cherries, strawberries, cranberries), with a medium body, fruit-forward, luscious, and a soft tannin structure.

Flying Fox Vineyard & Winery

Established in 2006 as a side project of Veritas. They make limited batch wines and vermouths. The vermouths are seasonal, and all of their products are about pure Virginia expression/terroir. Flying Fox Vineyard: 6 acres in the Monticello AVA (Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot). They also have their Ridge Run Vineyard in the Shenandoah AVA of 8 acres (Viognier, Pinot Gris)

I had a flight of their Flying Fox Series: Pinot Gris, Rosé, Merlot, Petit Verdot
- Pinot Gris was lemon-forward with lime zest on the back end. Crisp, dry, and refreshing, light bodied
- Rosé - 50% Cab Franc, 50% Merlot. Redcurrants, blackberries, and red plum flesh aromas. Dry and crisp, medium bodied
- Merlot: red plums, black cherries, mocha. Soft plush tannins, medium bodied
- Petit Verdot: cassis, violets, gardenias, blackberries. Raisinated and smoky character. Full bodied, lush, and chewy tannin structure.

I was fortunate to taste their Vermouths too. My favorite was the Spring Sweet Vermouth, as I’m very partial to floral components in beverages.

Spring - Sweet Vermouth: strawberries, local rhubarb, wormwood
Fall - Sweet Vermouth: dried orange peel, cardamom, ginger, turmeric, persimmon
Summer - Sweet Vermouth: local white peach, elderflower, angelica root
Winter - Sweet Vermouth: raisins, dates, apple, pear, cinnamon, pomegranate

I loved their wines, but honestly their vermouths were the major stars. I’m entirely about the use of seasonal flavors, and each vermouth gave a pure representation of each season

I’m excited to see the full potential of Virginia wines play out over the next few decades, especially in the Monticello AVA. The styles are certainly terroir-driven, and there is clear evidence of French winemaking, but these wines aren’t French. They also aren’t Californian, nor are they Oregonian. Virginia has its own identity, and it can be seen very clearly through the lens of any observant wine drinker. Never before have I been excited about Viognier outside of France, nor Petit Verdot-heavy wines than with my time in Monticello. The real shame is that these wines aren’t more celebrated but in many ways I’m not unhappy that Virginia’s Monticello wines are a hidden secret to the rest of the world. There is something indescribably magical about a wine region that produces gems under the radar, when most domestic drinkers look towards Napa Valley, Willamette Valley, or even the Finger Lakes. The best thing I can do as a sommelier is to cherish this region and to share it with the closest of friends.

Facts & figures taken from Virginia 2020 Press Kit https://www.virginiawine.org/

Story & Photos: Bryce Faucheaux @nola_somm Editor Chris Costales